A camping hammock can be one of the most comfortable ways to sleep outdoors, but only if it is hung correctly. Pull it too tight and it squeezes your shoulders and puts enormous strain on the straps and trees. Hang it too loose and you end up folded in a banana shape. A poorly chosen anchor can also be dangerous. The good news is that a few simple principles, including strap angle, tree selection and lying position, account for most of the difference between a restless night and a genuinely restful one.
Start by choosing the right trees. Look for two living, healthy trees roughly 12 to 15 feet apart for a typical full-length hammock, each with a trunk at least about 6 inches in diameter, and preferably thicker. Avoid dead trees, trees with cracked trunks, loose bark or visible rot, and anything that moves noticeably when you push on it. Just as important, look up before you hang. Dead branches overhead, sometimes called widowmakers, can fall in wind, so choose a spot with a clear canopy above. Do not hang a hammock over water, rocky drops, steep slopes or cliff edges, and keep it high enough to clear the ground but low enough that a fall would be short. Never anchor to posts, railings, vehicles or structures not designed to carry a dynamic load; a person settling into a hammock can momentarily pull on each anchor with considerably more force than their body weight. Finally, check local rules. Some parks and campgrounds restrict or prohibit hammocks on trees to protect vegetation, and some require designated sites or specific strap types.
The single most useful hanging guideline is the strap angle. Aim for the suspension to run at roughly 30 degrees from horizontal at each end. This leaves the hammock with a deep, relaxed sag that lets you lie flatter and keeps the forces on the straps and trees manageable. A tightly strung hammock with nearly horizontal straps looks neat but multiplies the tension in the suspension, which stresses the hardware and squeezes the fabric uncomfortably around your body. A simple way to approximate the angle is to attach the straps somewhere around head height or a little above, then adjust until the hammock hangs with a clear smile shape. When you sit in the middle, the seat height should be similar to a chair, often cited as around 18 inches above the ground, so you can get in and out easily and would not have far to fall. Some hammock users add a structural ridgeline, a fixed cord between the two ends set at roughly 83 percent of the hammock's length, which reproduces the same sag every time regardless of how far apart the trees are.
The suspension is what holds your weight, so it deserves as much attention as the hammock itself. Use wide, flat tree straps rather than thin rope or cord. Straps around one inch wide or wider spread the load across the bark and reduce damage to the tree's living outer layer, which is why many land managers and leave-no-trace guidelines recommend them. They also tend to slip less than narrow cord. Check the weight rating of the hammock, the straps and every connector, and treat the lowest rating in the system as the limit. Carabiners should be load-rated for the purpose; small accessory clips sold as keychains are not designed to hold a person. Inspect straps and stitching before each trip for fraying, cuts or sun damage, and replace worn components rather than improvising repairs with knots. When you first get in, sit down gently in the center and lean back gradually instead of jumping in, which helps you confirm the setup holds and avoids sudden shock loads. Remove straps after use rather than leaving them on trees, and vary your hang site on repeat visits.
Most gathered-end hammocks are most comfortable when you lie slightly diagonally, with your head toward one side of the centerline and your feet toward the other. This flattens the fabric under your body, reduces shoulder squeeze and limits the knee hyperextension some people notice when lying straight down the middle. Keeping the foot end slightly higher than the head end helps stop you sliding toward the center during the night. Warmth is the next challenge. A sleeping bag beneath you compresses under your weight and loses most of its insulating value, so cold air moving below the hammock can chill you even on mild nights. A sleeping pad placed inside the hammock or an underquilt hung beneath it addresses this. In buggy areas, an integrated or separate mosquito net that seals fully around the hammock prevents bites, and a tarp pitched above, with enough overhang to cover both ends, protects against rain and dew. Tie small drip lines onto the straps so rainwater drips off before it can travel down into the hammock fabric during a storm.